Monthly Archives: June 2022

South Bend, Indiana and Łódź, Poland

by Lisa Fetheringill Zwicker, Fulbright Scholar in Wrocław, Poland

How might the factory buildings from nineteenth century industries be used in today’s twenty-first century information age economies? The Polish city of Łódź offers a creative and compelling model, one that albeit requires significant public and private investment to succeed.

Postcard with a view of Izrael K. Poznański manufacturing plant at Ogrodowa Street, end of the nineteenth century, Łódź City Museum

South Bend, Indiana and Łódź Poland share a similar economic trajectory. They both rose to industrial importance in the second half of the nineteen century, and they both declined in the twentieth.

This picture shows Łódź before development began.

In the late 1700s, Łódź had been mostly farmland, Łódź City Museum

The two cities have the skeletons of the industrial past within their midst.

South Bend Studebaker factory in 1890 Source

The annual mid-year meeting for Fulbright students and scholars took place in 2022 in Łódź Poland, and my visit to Łódź showed me one way that beautiful architecture of the past could be re-developed for new purposes.

As part of two days of activities, students learned about the city and its past through a city tour where we spent time in factory campuses created by the Izrael Poznański and Karol Scheibler. In these places, entrepreneurs created not only vast factory spaces for spinning textiles but also built homes for workers, as well as fire stations, schools, and kindergartens.

Workers gathered in front of Karol Scheibler’s factory in Wodny Rynek (Wodny Market Square) at the end of the nineteenth century, Łódź City Museum

Our tour guide mentioned that so many of the workers’ needs were met within the network of the factory buildings that if the rest of the city of Łódź were to disappear, the workers would have barely noticed it.

As in Łódź, in South Bend, the Studebakers and the Olivers also created vast factory spaces – in their case for the carriages and cars they produced.  Like Łódź entrepreneurs, they also created workers’ homes and social services.

In Łódź, when I strolled through the beautifully restored buildings of brick, thronged with shoppers on a sunny Saturday, it felt bittersweet to think back to South Bend with its similar set of buildings full of possibility that also await the possibility of restoration.

For Łódź, finding the funds for redevelopment has taken time, and the redevelopment has not happened overnight. As Łódź was a city of 30% Jews before the Holocaust, the leaders had to wait for property rights to be determined before the city could be redeveloped. Up to 90% of Polish Jews were murdered in the Holocaust, and it was difficult to find their descendants. In the last 30 years since the fall of communism, the city has slowly begun building.

In these structures it is possible to see the beginnings of the sanding, cleaning and refining of the old brick, starting from the top of the building.

Only the top of this building has been renovated, so far

Like South Bend, Łódź, Poland is also a city with cold and gray winters and hot sticky summers. Yet like so many other European cities, there is a culture of walking and using public transportation which make developments like this much more possible. The willingness to pay taxes and to invest in public spaces also separates Europe from the United States where it is much more difficult to create a massive project like this one. I wonder if it is also a certain willingness to wait that makes the slow steady progress of a place like Łódź, possible.

I was struck that right across from the beautiful Art Museum, buildings still awaited renovation with holes in the building and graffiti.

Initial funding for the Manufaktura project came from private French investors, but European Union, Polish government, and other regional and city funds also made it possible.

Can we in the US, with so many beautiful historic buildings do something similar?

South Bend’s Studebaker buildings are just waiting…

Learning Polish Language in Wrocław

By Lisa Fetheringill Zwicker, Fulbright Scholar in Poland

On the third day of Polish class at the University of Wrocław, after our class of seven students from Guadeloupe, Belarus, Germany, Morocco, Japan, and Brazil had finished, I found my head spinning. I was so rusty after not speaking Polish for so many years, and ninety minutes of class only in Polish was a challenge. Some of my fellow students had been living in Poland for years and seemed to be following much more than I could.

Still, I wanted to be the good student.

I approached my teacher after class to ask – how should I prepare for class?

What tips did she had for me? Should I try to use note cards to memorize vocabulary? Should I buy Polish grammar books and review grammatical rules? Should I write down the lyrics to Polish songs and memorize them?  I was already meeting with a virtual coach on Verbling weekly; how could my coach best help me prepare for class and learn Polish?

Or, I thought, should I try to follow the example of my quite old-fashioned Russian teacher… I have memories of summer intensive Russian when I was an undergraduate at Berkeley and my teacher with his long grey beard expecting us the stand in front of the class and declaim the memorized Russian-language dialogue that was our homework.

The tricky grammar of Polish, (for foreigners) difficult pronunciation, for example the different forms of “sh” in “szczęśliwy” [lucky], I thought, maybe could best be mastered by trying to swallow whole sentences.

In response to my question, my teacher told me that I should go to museums, concerts, films, and performances, that I should try to immerse myself Polish culture while I am here and listen to the music of the Polish language. She had already handed out “What’s Playing” little booklets. If I really insisted on working through texts, I should try to decipher those texts as these little summaries of events were the ways that people actually spoke, but more importantly, then go to the films and performances.

June 6-22 What’s playing?

It was a culture clash.

I had approached the class wanting to learn how I could be as efficient as possible in my four months in Poland. I wanted to learn as much of the language as I could and reach my goals as fast as possible: to be able to communicate in Polish well enough for daily life in Wrocław; and to build a foundation for future study so I may be able to read Polish research on my topic on women in Wrocław/Breslau in the nineteenth century.

Now after three months here, I am still not as far along as I had hoped, but I can see clear progress. I’m following my teacher’s advice by watching Polish films and listening to Polish music, as well as my own tried and true methods of learning language using flashcards and writing and rewriting assignments.

My homemade flashcards – I haven’t been able to find them in stores!

Some of the most helpful suggestions have come from my IU colleague and Professor of Polish Lukasz Sicinski. He encouraged me to focus on vocabulary and start reading secondary sources in Polish in my field of study. He liked my idea of watching Netflix in Polish and listening to Polish music. He also encouraged me to not worry so much about grammar at this point because at my level that would interfere with being able to communicate.

Trying to learn a language in midlife has been a different experience than learning one as a college or graduate student. The new words do not pour into my brain as they had when I was younger. I seem to forget a week later the words that I had only recently memorized. It has been a challenge to feel helpless and unable to communicate. This despite the fact that Polish people in in Wrocław for the most part feel quite positively toward Americans and are usually happy to try to help me.

As I spend these four months in Wrocław and study the Jewish family the Bauers of Breslau and their descendants, I often think about those Jewish immigrants to the United States and other parts of the world in the 1930s where they were like me, trying to learn a new language in midlife – But unlike me they also faced hostility and open antisemitism. I think of my housemates from the Ukraine who are trying to learn Polish as they forge ahead with the continuing war close by.

Learning language has both such broad implications and is so specific and concrete. In this way it is both intensely personal as well as tied up into larger systems of cultures and politics.

And with that thought, I will sign off and head back to my Polish language flashcards, my Polish homework for Wednesday’s class, and a favorite Polish song, Krążę krążę, by Faustyna Maciejczuk.

Oaxaca de Juarez: Past & Present

by Adrian Pacheco, International Studies Intern 2022

When we first arrived at the airport in Santa Cruz, Xocotlan, Oaxaca, I was surprised to see a small town in a verdant valley that lacked any tall buildings or bustling highways. As we approached the city center, the buildings didn’t get any taller. What we found as we arrived at Oaxaca de Juarez ”downtown” was a quaint town full of art and artisans that expressed the city’s connection to its indigenous heritage while incorporating Spanish colonial influence at the same time.

The view from the Observatorio, Oaxaca de Juarez

The view from the Observatorio, Oaxaca de Juarez

Out of the roughly 70 indigenous groups native to the Mexican territory, 16 of them are found in Oaxaca, each with their own language and individual culture and customs. Since the arrival of the Spanish in the early 1500’s, the landscape of Mexico has seen immense change in the groups that inhabit the mountains, valleys and coasts of the country. Oaxaca exists as an example of the cultural syncretism brought about by the Spanish, it is expressed through their food, dress and especially their architecture. Much of the buildings in Oaxaca are built in a traditional Spanish style, but the food, art and traditions in the state are directly influenced by the native Zapotec communities that call the valley home.

Tlayuda de Chapulines y una Michelada

Tlayuda de Chapulines y una Michelada

It has been fascinating to take on this trip with Spanish and Anthropology students, as we get to see where modern Mexican life meets with the ancient traditions set by indigenous communities. Oaxaca is home to incredibly maintained archeological sites like Monte Alban, Mitla, and San Jose Mogote.

Ruins of Mitla, Tlacolula Valley